24 hours in Dunedin with FQ’s editorial assistant
Join our editorial assistant Amberley on an action-packed 24-hour stay in Dunedin during the height of winter. Our editorial assistant Amberley was invited to Dunedin this week to attend the opening of The Shelter’s new boutique, located right in the heart of the city. There was free-flowing prosecco and finger food, and, naturally, a spectacular array of new season sartorial staples from the likes of Issey Miyake, Taylor, and Rick Owens.  Here’s everything that she got up to during her 24-hour sojourn: Day one 11:30am – Take off I arrive perfectly on time to the airport with a spring in my step. With no luggage to check in, I head straight for my departure gate where I park up at a suitably cosy coffee shop to get a spot of writing in before embarking on the nearly two-hour flight. I’m caffeinated and ready to go. 2:40pm – Arrival in Dunedin Despite being a bit late to get away, we make our descent into Dunedin relatively on time. I manage to catch multiple glimpses out the aeroplane window at the vast greenery and sunny blue skies. What a day to be here! 3:30 – Check-in at the Ebb Hotel My taxi drops me right out the front of the Ebb Hotel, my accommodation for the night. This contemporary boutique hotel opened in 2021, and to say that it’s chic would be an understatement. I make my way to the reception to check in and then up to my room on the top floor. The entire hotel is built around a stunning courtyard and the walls of each floor are wrapped with striking artworks – you could almost mistake it for an art gallery. I put down my bags and acquaint myself with my room. There’s a chic marbled bathroom that has an oh-so-tempting bath tub (more on that later), an enormous bed and a plethora of modernist furnishings. I am delighted to find a welcome gift from The Shelter which features a selection of locally-made treats from Dunedin and one of Taylor’s signature ‘Extension’ Tanks which will do doubt become a staple in my wardrobe come summer. 3:50pm – A brief look around the city I head out to enjoy the (unusually) splendid weather and make my way along George Street to grab a late lunch and take in the sights and sounds of the city. 4:30pm – Time to get ready I head back to my room, unpack my belongings and decide on my outfit for the night. While I fix my hair and makeup, I pop an episode of Desperate Housewives on the TV and peruse the assortment of bottled cocktails that the minibar has to offer. 5:30pm – Launch time! It’s officially event time. After taking a couple of outfit pics in the full-length mirror in my room, I make my way down to The Shelter’s new store which is just a stone’s throw from my hotel. I enter the store and it’s bustling with people excitedly moving about the space. The fitout is cool, moody, spacious – very on brand for The Shelter. I am welcomed with a glass of prosecco and begin to make my way around the store.  My look for the night. 6:30pm – A grand tour of the store The left wall of the store is dedicated entirely to Taylor’s latest collection, which I take my time perusing through. There’s everything from simple shirting and lightweight knits to slinky slip dresses within my reach, and it feels like dangerous territory for my wallet. I take particular joy in looking at the vibrant new red pieces, which provide a delightful contrast to the brand’s signature monochrome palette. After a lap of the store, I’ve managed to get amongst the array of Rick Owens and Issey Miyake on offer and I now have a mental wish list of everything I want to purchase. My glass of prosecco is topped up and I indulge in a nibble or two from the exquisite table of catering. I am told that there is a competition running where you can win a garment of your choosing, so I quickly make my way over to the entry table where I put in an entry for Taylor’s Folded Exude Slip Dress – because you can never have too many little black dresses, right?  8:00pm – Goodnight  After an enjoyable couple of hours socialising with the fellow event guests and having a thorough look through the stunning new space, it’s time to head out for some dinner and then make my way back to the Ebb. I run a bubble bath in my room’s ludicrously capacious bathtub and relax while watching yet another episode of Desperate Housewives. I cleanse my face, don my pyjamas, and call it a night. Imagery: supplied by The Shelter. Day two 6:30am – Rise and shine My alarm goes off at 6:30am and I lie in bed for a few minutes enjoying the gloriously soft mattress. Nothing beats a hotel bed, I think to myself. I get ready for the day and make my way down to the Ebb Cafe on the ground floor. 7:30am – Breakfast time I meet with the rest of the team from The Shelter and we debrief over last night’s festivities over a wholesome breakfast and coffee (of course).  8:15am – Back to Auckland After a brief but extremely enjoyable stay in the city of Dunedin, it’s time for me to head back to reality. As my Uber drives me along the scenic route to the airport, I reminisce over the last 24 hours and all of the interesting people, sights and chic clothing I’ve had the pleasure of viewing. If you needed a sign to visit Dunedin, whether for a fleeting sojourn or an extended stay, this is it.
The show: In conversation with Rory William Docherty
With more artistic talent than you can shake a stick at, the creative shares his professional history and process ahead of his New Zealand Fashion Week solo debut. Rory William Docherty by Mara Sommer. It’s an uncharacteristically sunny winter’s day in Tāmaki Makaurau/Auckland when FQ talks to Rory William Docherty. Amid the chaotic rush that is the lead-up to New Zealand Fashion Week and what will be his first-ever solo show, the designer has graciously reserved an hour of his time to sit down and chat via video link. He dials in from his beautifully curated living room filled with chic furnishings and towering house plants bathed in natural light — an environment that mirrors the attention to detail that pervades his collections. The conversation immediately turns to Fashion Week, which at the time of our interview is a mere six weeks away. “It’s a juggling act,” says Docherty. “We’re in the midst of sampling the collection for Fashion Week while trying to finish some production I want to get in store as soon as possible. Today, I’m expecting the new-season silk prints to arrive on my doorstep, which I’m really excited about.” Original prints such as these have become synonymous with Docherty’s eponymous label, alongside the array of luxury knits, Japanese suiting, Italian wool and reworked deadstock materials he features throughout his collections. The artistry instilled by his creative upbringing shines through in every garment he creates. Part 1: Agnus Dei. Part 1: Agnus Dei. Born to Scottish parents in the UK, he moved with his family to Aotearoa at the age of two, and was raised in a farming community in the Manawatū. Surrounded by an abundance of natural beauty, hequickly developed a love of drawing, painting and fashion, interests he pursued under the guidance of his art-teacher father. “I could draw and paint before I could read,” says Docherty. “So there I was, drawing and painting, and Mum and Dad would always throw these amazing Hogmanay [Scottish New Year’s Eve] parties and get really dressed up. I guess I just thought it was fabulous, and a bit escapist, being able to kind of put forward a [different] version of yourself.” As the years ticked by, the designer leaned further into his artistic talent, and on leaving school opted to pursue a degree in fashion design at Massey University. His first big break into the industry was as a designer for iconic local outwear label Swanndri. This marked the beginning of a remarkable career in fashion that has spanned more than two decades to date, during which he has loaned his considerable skills to several esteemed labels in both a design and a retail capacity. Although Docherty had long hoped to found his own label, doing so wasn’t so straightforward. Towards the end of a five-year stint designing for Workshop Denim, he felt a strong desire to refocus on his art outside the scope of fashion. “I’d just been working quite hard and felt like I really wanted to explore drawing and painting again,” he says. In dedicating his free time to his art, his drawings soon evolved beyond paper. “Before I knew it, I was like, ‘This would make a really cool textile’, and then that turned into a textile print and I was like, ‘It could [also] make a really great coat’, and then, ‘It would also be beautiful as embroidery’ — and in spite of myself, I ended up making [my first] collection.” Part 6: Refresh collection. Part 6: Refresh. Over a two-and-a-half-year period, Docherty crafted a full body of work that ultimately became Part 1: Agnus Dei. That was around seven years ago, although he’s reluctant to pinpoint a specific launchdate. “It wasn’t really a brand,” he says of that time. “I basically just made [my first collection] and then it was like, ‘Okay, what do I do?’ and I thought, ‘I’ll just put on an exhibition.’” Presented to a select group of friends, colleagues and industry people at Thievery on Karangahape Road, it was the first time Docherty’s designs had been seen by the local fashion community. “The response was really positive, and people were like, ‘You need to start your own brand,’” he says. And so he did. When asked to define his label, Docherty keeps it short and simple: “[It’s] slow fashion, quality craftsmanship [and] original artwork.” More than just the trend du jour, slow fashion has always been important him as both a maker and a consumer. “I’ve never really thought about it in terms of hashtags and catchphrases — it’s just how I actually purchase clothes and dress,” he says, using as examples the Yohji Yamamoto and Prada pieces he’s had in his wardrobe for 20-plus years. “I try to create clothes that people will keep in their wardrobes for that amount of time.” Every Rory William Docherty garment is made locally by him and the small team of contractors he employs to help with pattern-making and sampling, so you can be sure you’re investing in quality. Sketch previews from Rory's NZFW show. Circling back to the topic of New Zealand Fashion Week, Docherty says there’s more than just the clothes to consider in the process; he’s currently trying to organise a preliminary model casting. He’s aiming to curate a very specific mood for his show. “We’re starting to think about, like, how do we create the mood for the space, what’s the music, and how to get that balance of something that’s special, but strong, but gentle — all of that,” he says. As with those in his previous collections, the items he’ll present are designed to be worn year-round. “There will definitely be some signature pieces to spot,” he says. “I really want to reinforce that and have pieces from previous collections that are ongoing, so whoever’s watching can be like, ‘Okay, cool, I can wear that again.’” Alongside the handmade shoes and custom jewellery he’s in the thick of finalising with independent collaborators, he’ll be showing new textiles and a continuation of a silhouette he’s delved into before. “I think [Rory William Docherty] has been perceived as an aspirational and perhaps a more formal, dressed-up brand,” he says. “What I’m hoping to achieve through showing at Fashion Week is to expose it to a broader audience, so that they can see the breadth of what I do, and understand that it isn’t just about special-occasion dresses.” One thing’s for sure: thanks to Docherty’s strong values and vision, whatever his show evolves into, it’ll definitely be one to remember. Imagery: Getty Images for NZFW: Kahuria. This article originally appeared in Fashion Quarterly’s Spring 2023 issue. 
What you’ll find inside Fashion Quarterly’s spring issue
We tell you everything you need to know about our new magazine on the shelves. Spring has arrived, and in the spirit of new beginnings, we’re diving into the world of beauty in the latest issue of Fashion Quarterly. In this issue, we invite you to reinvigorate your wardrobe after a long winter through our fashion shoots; featuring bold hues, lightweight layers and strong silhouettes aplenty.  Our Trending section explores the hottest style trends to try this season, including fresh florals, corporate dressing, statement blues, and more. Plus, we investigate the rise of merch madness, and speak with five designers about their burgeoning labels.  As it’s our ‘Beauty’ issue, we bring you an extended beauty section: FQ’s resident editors trial a non-surgical facelift and a lip contour tattoo, we share our favourite budget-buys and must-have new releases, and we take a look inside the make-up bags of seven iconic industry figures.  In our Life and Culture section, we look deeper into the concept of self-care and FQ’s digital editor reviews the latest reads. While in On Top, we meet the women who turned their side hustles into full-blown careers.  Read all that, and so much more in Fashion Quarterly’s spring issue, on sale now!  The Fashion Quarterly spring 2023 issue is on sale at all good supermarkets, newsagents, and online at fq.co.nz/subscribe/ Photography: Olivia Kirkpatrick Styling: Rachel Morton Hair and make-up: Rae Sacha Model: Matea Atia at 62 Management
Meet the Y2K-style sneaker our editors are wearing
ASICS have brought back their coveted GT-2160™ sneakers and our editors can’t get enough. Discover more about these new it-shoes and how you can incorporate them into your everyday repertoire. If there’s one item you’ll never find absent in our wardrobes, it’s a faithful pair of sneakers. Beyond their obvious comfort and practicality, a well-chosen sneaker can be a versatile staple in your footwear repertoire. Seriously, what’s not to love about a shoe that can be worn to the gym but also paired with your favourite tailored suiting? One brand that is championing this concept expertly is ASICS, whose Sportstyle collection masterfully marries cutting-edge sports technology with fashion-forward designs.  With the recent renaissance of Y2K fashion, the brand has relaunched one of its most iconic styles, the GT-2160™ sneaker, initially unveiled as part of the GT-2000™ range in the early 2010s. Paying homage to its earlier iterations in both its aesthetic and its construction, the relaunched GT-2160™ sneaker embraces the same sleek, undulating profile that defined the GT-2000™ series, while also incorporating dual GEL™ technology and a segmented midsole (that give the shoes their comfortable cushioned feel). Available in four core colour variations—White/Pure Silver, White/Illusion Blue,  White/Shamrock Green and Oyster Grey/ Carbon— each pair is imbued with a touch of the metallic chromecore aesthetic that was popularised during the 2000s. In celebration of this newly released sneaker, our editors picked out their favourite GT-2160™ colourway and took to their wardrobes to conjure up their own unique way of styling them. Below, we take you through each look and tell you exactly why these sneakers deserve a spot on your spring wishlist. Sarah wears the ASICS GT-2160™ in White/Illusion Blue. Sarah Murray, Editor-in-chief I’ll be honest – my normal shoe du jour is a heel – the higher the better. As someone who is relatively short I enjoy the height they give me. However, we all know heels are not always the most practical (or the most comfortable!) which is why it’s essential to have some sneakers on the go. Thankfully, my ASICS GT-2160™ in the blue and silver colourway tend to pretty much go with everything. I love slipping into them quickly to do the school run – paired with just my workout gear,  a long black Harris Tapper coat, and dark Bottega sunglasses.  But I’ve been pleasantly surprised that they can also be teamed with simple jeans and a tee combo (complete with a blazer or jacket like my Maggie Marilyn sailing jacket). They’re comfortable too – so comfy in fact I’ve been choosing them over any of the aforementioned heels most days.  Louise wears the ASICS GT-2160™ in White/Shamrock Green. Louise Dunn, Digital editor Since comfort is a central component of my everyday style, I tend to lean towards relaxed silhouettes and soft textures in my outfits, borrowing style cues from Scandi street style. Day to day, it’s common to find me wearing a pair of slouchy suit trousers (often picked out of the menswear section) with an oversized tee or jumper; and while other shoes certainly have a place in my wardrobe, sneakers are an unwavering staple in my footwear rotation given how much time I spend walking. When styling my ASICS GT-2160™ sneakers (which I selected in the White/Shamrock Green colourway) I found it easy to pair them with my favourite pinstripe grey trousers and a monochrome baggy knit for a chic off-duty look. Keeping my accessories simple, I opted for a slicked bun and rounded off the ensemble with a pair of sunglasses and my mini crocodile skin bag. Don’t be surprised if you see me wearing this outfit on the reg’.  Amberley wears the ASICS GT-2160™ in White/Pure Silver. Amberley Colby, Editorial assistant Though I’m one of those people who has always found truth in the saying ‘beauty is pain’ (both in my grooming habits and sartorial choices), the ASICS GT-2160™ sneaker was a refreshing switch up from my usual heels or tight-fitting boots. My everyday style, though extremely varied, is often pretty layered at this time of year. I love chucking a blazer, wool coat or trench over my base layers as it sharpens up a more basic ensemble – plus, I can always take it off if I get too warm. Since I picked out the GT-2160™ White/Pure Silver colourway that features a touch of canary yellow, I wanted to infuse my outfit with some complementary tones. As a creature of habit, I opted for a mostly black ensemble, donning some streamlined, wide-leg black pants, a structured black top with cut outs, and my favourite creamy yellow trench coat – which I discovered paired perfectly with my new ASICS. Finishing off my outfit with a black baguette-style bag and a pair of gold hoops, this look felt effortlessly chic, and I loved the cushioned feeling of these shoes as I embarked on my city commute.
3 reasons you should trust technology to design suiting
Leveraging the latest in AI technology, THEODORE have made bespoke menswear more accessible and convenient than ever before. THEODORE is an Australian menswear brand that values innovation and quality, and they’re not afraid to break down traditional barriers to achieve it. By leveraging the latest in AI technology, they’ve made bespoke menswear more accessible and convenient than ever before. And by combining technology with traditional craftsmanship, they’ve created a product that is truly unique and of the highest quality. At the core of THEODORE’s offering is their contactless body measurement technology, which they have invested heavily in developing. With the release of their THDR Pocket Tailor App, customers can now get their measurements taken instantly and accurately from anywhere in the world. This eliminates the need for in-person fittings and ensures that customers get a truly personalised fit. Read on for three reasons why you should trust AI to design your next menswear suit, plus we answer your questions on how it really works. 1. Precision and Accuracy:  The advanced AI technology used by THEODORE ensures that the measurements taken for your garment are precise and accurate. The THDR Pocket Tailor App uses deep learning algorithms to offer customers instant contactless measurement, ensuring that the garment is tailored to your exact specifications. This eliminates the guesswork of choosing a garment off the rack and guarantees a perfect fit every time.   2. Efficiency and Convenience:  The use of AI technology in the production process allows for greater efficiency and convenience for customers. Computer-generated patterns and laser fabric cutters minimise the chance of error, while the contactless measurement system saves time and eliminates the need for in-person fittings. This means that customers can order their personalised garment from anywhere in the world with ease, and receive it in a timely manner.   3. Quality and Craftsmanship:  While AI technology plays a significant role in the production process, THEODORE recognises the importance of traditional craftsmanship. All garments are hand-finished by experienced tailors and independently quality-checked to maintain their high standards. This means that customers receive a personalised, perfect fit garment that is not only precise and efficient but also of the highest quality and craftsmanship. Where does it source its fabrics from? THEODORE works closely with leading fabric mills across Europe and Asia to source the highest quality fabrics that are functional, sustainable, and durable. They offer a range of fabrics from mills such as Loro Piana, Ariston, Marling & Evans, VBC, Dino Filarte, Stylbiella, and Jorge Carli, ensuring that customers have access to the most fashion-forward and luxurious suiting fabrics available. So, how can I ensure the quality of construction? Once the fabric has been selected, THEODORE uses computer-generated patterns and laser fabric cutters to ensure the most efficient and reliable garment construction possible. And while technology plays a significant role in the production process, the brand recognises the importance of human artisans, and all garments are hand-finished by experienced tailors and independently quality-checked to maintain their high standards. THEODORE suits feature a standard half-canvas construction with hand-pick stitching on all seams, functional buttonhole sleeves, double-fused waistbands, and reinforced crotch construction. Their shirts also feature high-quality craftsmanship with side seams reinforced with gussets, split yokes, double-fused collars and cuffs for structure. All of these details add up to garments that not only fit perfectly but also look and feel great. Need more convincing? Download the THDR Pocket Tailor App on the Apple App Store or Google Play. Or better still, try your luck at booking an appointment at one of THEODORE’s pop-ups held over May (dates below) or try a virtual appointment to begin the process.    New Zealand pop-up schedule: 6-8 May 2023: Christchurch City 8-12 May 2023: Queenstown 12-17 May 2023: Wellington 20-22 May 2023: Dunedin – Also at the Dunedin wedding Expo 21 May 22-26 May 2023: Aucklan
Meet our friday muse, freelance stylist Tori Ambler
Known for her sunny demeanour and immaculate dress sense, read on for Tori Ambler's take on being an in-demand stylist. If you’ve flicked through any of the recent issues of Fashion Quarterly, chances are you’ve seen Tori Ambler’s name cited in the credits. Blessed with a keen eye for detail and a natural affinity for curating looks, Ambler knew she wanted to work in fashion long before she realised it was a viable career path. Starting out as a junior fashion editor for publication Karen magazine in the mid-2000s, Ambler has since earned a reputation as one of Aotearoa’s top stylists, working on shoots for a variety of clients across the local fashion and media scene. As a freelancer and the mother to two seven-year-old twin boys, each day for Ambler is extremely fast-paced. From sourcing pieces from local designers to dashing to after school pick up, it’s a constant juggling act, but one that Ambler approaches enthusiastically. As one of our frequent contributors and a woman whose style and work ethic we greatly admire, we sat down with Ambler this week to learn more about her career to date, her muses, and the advice she has for those wanting to elevate their personal style.  In conversation with with Tori Ambler: Let’s get up to speed. Could you tell us a bit about you, your background, and your career to date?  Apart from a brief stint working with a not for profit organisation, fashion and styling is all I’ve ever known. I began my career as junior fashion editor for Karen magazine back in 2004, under the incredible Marian Simms. It was a super hands-on role that gave me gritty experience across the inner workings of the industry. Everything from taping shoes, to clothing returns after shoots, copy editing articles, and doing coffee runs! Today I’m a freelance fashion stylist, and mum of very busy twin seven-year-old boys. I work on a huge range of jobs; fashion editorials for the best magazine, FQ, [plus] TV commercials, advertising campaigns, fashion shows, look books, ecommerce — the list goes on. What drew you to the medium of styling? Have you always been creative? I’ve been obsessed with clothing and fashion for as long as I can remember. Planning and laying out my outfits the night (or week) before, even if it was just for school. When I started styling, I knew immediately it was the role for me. Until I began at Karen magazine, I’d never even heard of the job ‘stylist’. It was pre-social media, and stylists were always very much behind the scenes. I loved, and still love preparing for shoots, developing a theme, sourcing, pre-styling, and then producing beautiful imagery. How would you describe your aesthetic as a stylist?  My aesthetic definitely shifts for each shoot and client. But I like clean lines — a bit understated, with a hint of masculine. What stylists or fellow creatives inspire you? So many! The joy of instagram is regularly being inspired by creatives from all over the globe. Two currently stand out for me; l love Vanessa Coyle‘s work, an Australian stylist who works a lot with Lara Worthington. And Amy Bannerman, an english stylist who works a lot with vintage clothing and sourcing incredible vintage. She has a knack for finding rare designer pieces, like mid ’90s Versace dresses — so dreamy! In what ways does your personal style influence the way you style others? Personally I love to be comfortable, whilst looking stylish and put together. I definitely reflect this in my work. I’m a big fan of soft suiting, and oversized [pieces]!  What has been your favourite campaign or job you’ve ever worked on and why was it your favourite? I have so many! I absolutely love my job. One that really comes to mind was my first shoot out of lock down. We were still under heavy restrictions, with no retail stores open. I had to source the whole shoot online with only a few retailers to work with. The company is still using the images on billboards all over New Zealand which I feel so proud of. Shoot styled by Tori Ambler for Fashion Quarterly Winter 2022. Shoot styled by Tori Ambler for Fashion Quarterly Spring 2023. How do you find balance between motherhood and work? It’s not easy. As a freelancer, if you’ve committed to a shoot, you really need to turn up. And equally, if your kids need you, you need to show up! We thankfully have amazing family support, and my husband Josh is flexible with his work. What are your favourite parts about working in the New Zealand fashion industry? Because it’s small, you get to know everyone really well. I’ve made so many close friends. Everyone is hugely supportive of each other, especially other stylists.  Are there any challenges you have encountered working as a freelancer? The ebb and flow of work is constantly changing! Managing finances is a constant struggle, especially when you have a savage shopping addiction… What does an average day look like for you? A shoot usually starts around 8:30am, so I’ll get up early, make the boys’ lunches and breakfast, lay out their outfits (of course), then get myself ready and pack the car. It’s a tight squeeze on shoot day, loading racks of clothes, steamer, the racks, my kit, and then the kids! I drop them at before-school care, and then head to work. Shoot days are my favourite. I set up my racks and the wardrobe, steam everything, then we start shooting once the model is finished in the make-up chair. Shoots are fast-paced and fun! What tips would you give to FQ readers looking to elevate their personal style? Start with a Pinterest board. Pin images of outfits and styles that you love that inspire you.  What’s next for you? Any exciting projects or campaigns on the horizon we should look out for? I’m currently working on the next Mi Piaci campaign which is looking amazing! Imagery will  come out from February 2024, so keep an eye out. Shoot styled by Tori Ambler for Fashion Quarterly Spring 2023. Quickfire questions: If I had to listen to one musician for the rest of my life it would be… I just checked my Spotify, and it looks like it’d be Kaytranada… at the moment. Last TV show I binged… The Beckham doco. Best place for a cocktail… Beau. Excellent marg. If I could have dinner with any three people on earth, dead or alive, I would choose… Michael Jackson, Kate Moss, Louis Theroux. The last item I bought for my wardrobe was… My beautiful Olivia Cashmore ‘Agnes’ dress. If I wasn’t a stylist I would be a… A home organiser, like Marie Kondo. The most cherished item in my home is… Old family photos. My style icon is… This is a great question. I have many. Ashley Olsen, Lara Worthington (after the Clarkie break up), Alexa Chung – the list goes on